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Jewellery of Today's British Royalty - Page 2
BACK TO PAGE 1 OF THE BRITISH ROYAL JEWELS
COMPILED AND RESEARCHED BY GOLDENAGED.ER
|Queen Alexandra, Queen Consort of King Edward VII|
|Dagmar Necklace |
The necklace was made in 1863
when the highest fashion was historicism.
Made by the Danish court jeweller at the time, Julius Didrichsen, it is made in a neo-Byzantine style. The style matches the replica of the Dagmar cross which was a Byzantine cross found in the sarocophagus of the mediaeval Danish Queen Dagmar, the wife of
King Waldemar the Victorious.
Therefore the name has nothing to do with Princess Alexandra's sister Princess Dagmar (later Empress Maria Feodorovna). It was the wedding gift to Princess Alexandra from King Frederik VII. It may well be the most splendid Danish wedding present ever given to a Danish Princess and reportedly cost £7,000 at the time of its manufacture. King Frederik had a deep personal interest in antiquarian studies and the idea that the wedding gift should include the “very Danish” historic cross was his. Shortly after her wedding, the Princess took the necklace to Garrards to have the centre clusters made convertible into brooches, which involved some resetting. As Princess of Wales, she wore the multi-coloured enamelled cross on a string of pearls. Above she is pictured at her coronation in 1902 wearing the Danish necklace on her bodice under the swags of pearls.
When Queen Elizabeth II and the
Duke of Edinburgh paid a state visit to Denmark 1957 the Queen was wearing the necklace at the gala performance in The Royal Theatre, without the cross and the pear-shaped pearls.
Alexandra, wearing the cross from the necklace.
India Diamond Emerald Necklace of Queen Alexandra
Queen Alexandra, at the Duchess of Devonshire’s costume ball.
In 1863, she received from
Queen Victoria this suite of
Indian ornaments, comprising a collar, armlet and two bracelets, made from uncut emeralds, diamonds and pearls as a wedding present. The seven-row collar
of pearl and emerald beads was hung with a multitude of pearl drops and diamond pendants, which were enamelled on the back.
Queen Mary broke up this piece and made a rope of pearl and emerald beads, which she wore, before giving them to Alice, Duchess of Gloucester, her daughter-in-law, as a wedding gift in 1935.
Queen Alexandra's Pearls
On the occasion of her wedding
Princess Alexandra was given a
parure of jewels with pearls by her groom,
Edward the Prince of Wales.
When she married in 1863,
he gave her this monumental
parure of diamonds, diamond tiara/coronet with matching necklace, brooch and earrings with pearls and diamonds. The Princess wore it on her wedding day.
Queen Alexandra wearing the pearl earrings
Description of the Brooch:
the “very rich Brilliant Diadem of
large and fine Brilliants, 10 large
Brilliants in the band, 10 do (ditto)
betweens/10 large Brillt drops in the
upper part, the whole made to divide into Brooches, etc.”
The brooch would later become a
favorite piece of Queen Mary
The earrings are in the possession of the present Queen and the necklace was a favorite of Queen Elizabeth, The Queen Mother.
|Necklace and Earrings presented by |
The Corporation of the
City of London
The necklace ". . . consists of 32
Golconda diamonds (old English cut), the centre stone, from which the rest graduate, weighing 13 carats 3 1-32 grains.
The beauty of this collection of stones was represented to lie in the uniformity and harmony of size, shape and brilliancy.
The earrings are equal in quality to the necklace, and consist of very large brilliant tops and drops with diamonds between, the top stones weighing 12½ carats, and the drops, which are said to be matchless, 17¼ carats, the whole weight of necklace and earrings
being 171 ½ ¼ 1/16 carats.”
The centre stone of the necklace was valued at £5,000, while the total value of the gift was £10,000. Both items were made by Garrard and Co.
The diamond rivière and earrings with pear-shaped diamond pendants were the gift of the
Corporation of the City of London and the Princess wore the necklace on the day of her wedding. The future Queen Alexandra often wore the necklace and the earrings, without the diamond drops.
The Princess of Wales added the diamond drops to her
diamond collet necklaces as pendants and sometimes even to the diamond and pearl necklace that she received as the wedding gift of the Prince of Wales. The necklace was passed on to the crown.
Queen Alexandra's Diamond Stars
In September 1864, Garrards repaired and altered five stars for the Prince of Wales “and in November spare diamonds from a tiara (presumably dismantled) were mounted in ‘3 Star hair pins’ for £125, while in 1866 he had a diamond bandeau made by the Crown Jewellers to hold nine star ornaments, for which he was charged £500.
These stars were adapted to other
purposes and were fitted as brooches or pins. Alexandra was exceedingly fond of her stars. . . . Yet, when she acquired the first of these ornaments, the device had been popular for almost two decades. Thanks in part to her sponsorship, however, stars were still in vogue at the beginning of the
twentieth century. Snake bracelets, which Alexandra also loved, enjoyed a similarly extended fashionable life.”
Queen Alexandra's Diamond Cockade
The Sunburst Diamond Brooch was put away after the Coronation of 1937 apparently.
In 2008 Queen Elizabeth decided to pull it from the vaults to wear to the French State Dinner.
Supposedly the Brooch is the size of a small saucer.
The original Sunburst brooch came with side diamond pins which can seen below on Queen Mary.
|Queen Alexandra's Diamond Collier Résille |
Made by Cartier in 1904.
Queen Mary kept the Collier in the royal collection and wore it herself as seen here in this photograph taken below in 1947.
With the collier, it was possible to attach more diamonds to the end of the rows, as seen here below on Queen Mary.
Jewels of Queen Alexandra:
The necklace above, is designed of foliate garlands decorated with 5 hexagonal amethyts set as swing centers within circular wreaths, alternating with pear-shaped scrolls, set with 13 European-Cut diamonds weighing approx. 8.5 carats, 69 European-Cut diamonds weighing approx. 10 carats, rose-cut diamonds, weighing another 5 carats approx., numerous smaller diamonds, mounted in silver and gold. Length is 17 in.
The necklace, when supported on a frame, may also be worn as a tiara. It has a wooden box of octagonal shape stamped on the lid:
The Property of Her Majesty The Late Queen Alexandra.The necklace ended up with Princess Maud, Countess of Southesk nee Lady Maud Duff (grand-daughter of King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra.) The story of how Princess Maud came into possession of the necklace is not exactly known, but it is thought that the Princess died intestate which means that she had no will. According to James Pope-Hennessy, official biographer, the jewels were split up informally amongst her surviving children.
Princess Maud may have received it from her mother HRH the Princess Royal as part of the Princess' inheritance upon her mother's death. Queen Alexandra. The jewel was purchased from Wartski in 1958 as part of the collection of jewels of Queen Alexandra and auctioned in the years 1988 and 2007.
Princess Maud, Countess Southesk
|Continuation of |
Queen Alexandra's Diamond Sunburst Brooch
The Queen Mother, wearing the Sunburst Diamond Brooch of Queen Alexandra in the middle of her dress on her husband's coronation day.
Queen Mary wearing the
Decorative Side Diamond Pins
that go with the
original Sunburst Brooch.
Instead of using the Sunburst Brooch in the middle, Mary substituted it with another diamond brooch. Hanging from the middle brooch is one of the
Cullinan Diamond brooches.
Featured in this picture,
if you look closely you can see the Decorative Side Diamond Pins
on Queen Mary.
(more pictures under Elizabeth II)
The Cambridge Pearl Brooch
After Alexandra, Queen Mary took a liking to the brooch and wore it..
|Gold Snake Bracelet|
DIAMOND AND RUBY NECKLACE OF QUEEN ALEXANDRA
A Royal presentation diamond and enamel pendant necklace of Queen Alexandra
Of openwork design, the ruby and diamond garland with rose-cut diamond and red enamel crown surmount and central cypher of crossed initials A for Queen Alexandra wife of King Edward VII, to a trace-link neckchain, circa 1905, fitted case
Sold at Christie's in London for
6 October 2010
London, South Kensington Lot
Queen Alexandra's Gold Bracelet with a Diamond and Enamel Buckle
This bracelet was a wedding present to Princess Alexandra of Denmark from the Duke of Cambridge, Queen Victoria’s first cousin, and Alexandra's maternal/paternal 2nd cousin. The three diamond ostrich feathers in the centre are the heraldic badge of the Prince of Wales. The enamel clasp appears to date from early in the reign of King William IV, the Duke’s uncle. The gold bracelet with a diamond and enamel buckle c.1830 and later was made by Garrard & Co. 4.4 x 6.6 x 6.2 The turquoise and brilliant-set bracelet with the cypher “L. A.” surmounted by a crown set in diamonds on rock crystal which was made by Wondra, Darmstadt was the gift of the Prince and Princess Louis of Hesse. The gold buckle bracelet, which has a clasp of enamel and diamonds, was presented by HRH Princess Mary of Cambridge.
Queen Alexandra's Diamonds
Queen Alexandra's Butterfly Brooch with Diamonds The magnificent antique diamond butterfly brooch, with en-tremblant wings and ruby eyes was last seen pictured at a family gathering to celebrate the 80th birthday of the Earl of Harewood in 2003. Lady Harewood surrounded by the Lascelles family, is sitting in the middle and clearly wearing the very large butterfly brooch. In autumn 2010, Sotheby’s Hong Kong presented the heirloom brooch for sale with an estimated selling price of US$120,000-$150,000. The auction house stated that the jewel was "in excellent condition, circa 1890, previously in the collection of Mary, Princess Royal and Countess of Harewood.
|Created by Messrs, Johnson, Walker and Tolhurst....Of great historical importance and a work of superb craftsmanship and elegance, the diamond butterfly brooch is a true treasure for period jewellery connoisseurs." |
Description of the brooch:Is pavé-set with 214 old mine-cut diamonds totaling 46.78 carats. The old European-cut stone which forms the body is approximately 2.60 carats. The stones are mounted in silver and have yellow gold detailing. The English-manufactured brooch has a removable fitting and is 5.20cm x 9.50cm. It dates from the late 19th century and was the present to the then Alexandra, Princess of Wales, on the occasion of her silver wedding anniversary in 1888. Later it was given to her granddaughter the Princess Royal, Countess of Harewood who wears the brooch in the picture above.
It was sold by her descendants and shown to the public at the Maastricht Fair in 2010 by Humphrey Butler, London, on behalf of an English family. Mr Butler was so kind to give me the pictures and told me the brooch is simply marvellous in terms of quality. Since its appearance at the fair, it has appeared for sale at Hancocks & Co. (Jewellers) Ltd. in London.
|Her Majesty Queen Victoria of Great Britain|
Queen Victoria's Diamond Necklace and Drop Earrings
Commissioned by Queen Victoria in 1858; altered by Queen Mary in 1911
Queen Victoria commissioned this collection after jewels she considered hers were taken by George III's son, Ernest Duke of Cumberland (at the time King of Hanover) after he claimed he had a claim to the throne of England.
She ordered Gerrards in London to replace the lost jewels by taking them from anything they could find. At this time, the central pendant of the necklace, known as the 'Timur Ruby' Lahore Diamond, was made detachable for use as the pendant on this necklace; two of the smaller pendants of the same necklace were made for use as detachable earrings.
In 1911, Queen Mary removed two stones from Queen Victoria's necklace to make solitaire earrings. She replaced them with three stones from another necklace of 158 collets, probably one that Queen Victoria had inherited in 1837. For the 1937 coronation, the Lahore Diamond was marginally recut, losing 0.12 of a carat, and set temporarily on the new crown made for Queen Elizabeth by Garrards. After the coronation, it was returned to the necklace. Either at this time or subsequently the necklace was reduced in length by four stones.
Both necklace and earrings were often worn by Queen Victoria, who bequeathed them to the Crown. Queen Alexandra and Queen Mary wore the necklace at their coronations (1901 and 1911). Queen Elizabeth wore both necklace and earrings in 1937, as did Her Majesty The Queen in 1953.
|The 'Timur Ruby' Necklace|
Description: Spinels, diamonds, gold, enamel. Dimension: 50 cm long. The spinels from the Lahore Treasury, 1849; presented to Queen Victoria by the Directors of the East India Company, 1851; the necklace made for Queen Victoria, 1853 (£220 5s. and £131 17s. 6d.; Garrards Royal Ledger, f. 31) and altered for Queen Mary (RA QEII/Garrard/Ledger 1901-11, p. 167)
At the conclusion of the Great Exhibition in October 1851, the Directors of the East India Company presented Queen Victoria with a selection from the Indian Section in recognition of her patronage of the exhibition. This gift included the collection of superb Indian jewellery taken from the Lahore Treasury at the time of the British annexation of the Punjab in 1849. The Queen particularly admired the 'wonderful' rubies in her journal: 'They are cabochons, uncut, unset, but pierced. The one is the largest in the world, therefore even more remarkable than the Koh-i-noor!' (23 October 1851). The latter diamond had been presented to the Queen by the East India Company in 1850.
In April 1853 Garrards set four of these so-called 'rubies' in a new diamond-encrusted gold and enamel necklace 'of Oriental design', with four diamond pendants also from Lahore. At the centre of the necklace came the huge rose-pink stone of 352G carats that Queen Victoria had especially noted. Two months later, Garrards adjusted the necklace to allow this stone to be detached for use as a brooch and to alternate with the recently recut Koh-i Nûr.
Like the so-called 'Black Prince's Ruby' in the Imperial State Crown, the four 'rubies' are in fact spinels, similar in appearance to rubies but gemmologically quite distinct. These four were probably mined in the region of Badakhshan (modern Afghanistan and Uzbekistan). The spectacular central stone bears Persian inscriptions recording its illustrious provenance from the Mughal Emperors Jahangir, Shah Jahan, Awrangzeb and Farrukhsiyar, via Nadir Shah to Ahmad Shah. The dates range from 1612 to 1771. Owing to a misreading of one of these inscriptions early in the last century, the stone acquired an erroneous association with the great Asian ruler Timur or Tamburlaine (1336-1408), a myth which has only recently been exposed.
Queen Victoria wore the necklace occasionally, notably during the State Visit of Napoleon III and the Empress Eugénie in 1855; and three of the diamond pendants were made detachable in 1858. Queen Mary had the necklace lengthened in 1911, but it has seldom been worn since.
Catalogue entry from Royal Treasures, A Golden Jubilee Celebration, London 2002
Queen Victoria's Ruby and Diamond Ring
The ring is inscribed in French ‘Unis à jamais’: united forever. It was a wedding present to Queen Victoria from her half sister (daughter of her mother’s first marriage), Feodora, Princess Hohenlohe-Langenburg.
|Diamond Bar Brooch of Queen Victoria|
Originally made for Queen Victoria,
Queen Elizabeth used this brooch to secure
the sash of the Légion d’Honneur.
|Orange Blossom Brooch|
Queen Victoria and Prince Albert were engaged on 15 October 1839 at Windsor Castle. Soon after, Prince Albert returned to Germany where he designed this brooch as an engagement present and sent it in a box to Victoria from Wiesbaden. Matching pieces of orange blossom jewellery, including a pair of earrings, a brooch and a circlet, were added to the suite for Queen Victoria's fifth and sixth wedding anniversaries.
|Bracelet with Conjoined Hearts|
Made of Gold and Amethyst
On 23 November 1839 Queen Victoria summoned the Privy Council to announce her engagement to Prince Albert. Just before she made her declaration she received this bracelet from her mother, Victoria, Duchess of Kent. The date and the initial V is engraved on the back.
|Queen Mother's Golden Jubilee Brooch|
(Reproduction Pictured Above)
Queen Elizabeth’s brooch is a festoon design of diamonds with a pearl centre and a pearl drop hanging from a looped chain of diamond collets. It was a gift to Queen Victoria in 1897 from the members of her household in celebration of her golden jubilee. She left it to the crown in 1901. It came to Queen Elizabeth in 1936.
|Queen Victoria's Wedding Pin|
The day before her wedding, Queen Victoria wrote of gift from ‘dearest Albert’ of ‘a splendid brooch, a large sapphire set round with diamonds, which is really quite beautiful’. She wore the brooch on her wedding day and on many subsequent occasions. The brooch was probably supplied by a leading London jeweller such as Kitching & Abud or Mortimer & Hunt, both of whom Prince Albert patronised significantly in the early years of his marriage. It reflects the simple style of early 19th-century jewellery, which remained in favour with the Queen well into her reign. The pin was passed to the crown.
|The Darnley or Lennox Jewel|
Gold, enamel (émail en ronde bosse, émail basse-taille), Burmese rubies, Indian emerald, cobalt-blue glass6.6 (7.6 with pendant loop) x 5.2 cmProbably made for Lady Margaret Douglas, Countess of Lennox; Horace Walpole (d.1797); by descent; sale of the contents of Strawberry Hill, George Robins, 11 May 1842 (lot 60); purchased by Queen Victoria (130 guineas)
Heart-shaped gold locket with polychrome enamels. Large areas of loss to the enamel on the reverse. Obverse: figures of Faith, Hope, Victory and Truth surround a winged heart set with a blue glass cabochon. Surrounded by a white enamel border with the motto: QVHA. HOPIS. STIL.CONSTANLY. VITH PATIENCE SAL. OBTEAIN. VICTORIE. IN YAIR. PRETENCE (Who hopes still constantly with patience shall obtain victory in their claim). Above the heart Victory and Truth hold a crown set with three rubies and a table-cut emerald. The crown is surmounted by a fleur-de-lis upon an azure shield. It opens to reveal two hearts pierced by two arrows and the motto in sixteenth century Scots: QUAT WE RESESOLV (What we resolve). Below the hearts is the monogram MSL (for Matthew and Margaret Stewart Lennox) surmounted by a wreath. The winged heart opens to reveal the device of two clasped hands and a green hunting horn surrounded by the inscription: DEATHE SAL DESOLVE (Death shall dissolve); below this device is a skull and crossbones. Reverse: with numerous emblems in basse-taille enamel: the sun in his glory amid a star-studded azure sky; a crescent moon with a male profile; a crowned salamander among flames; a phoenix among flames; a pelican in her piety; the figure of a man reclining on grass with a large sunflower growing from his loins and a bird on a laurel branch behind him. Surrounded by the motto: MY STAIT TO YIR I MAY COMPAER FOR ZOV QVHA IS OF BONTES RAIR (My state to these I may compare for you who are of rare goodness).
|The front of the locket opens to reveal further emblems: a stake among flames; a woman seated in a royal chair with the motto: GAR TEL. MY. RELaeS (Cause tell my release) on a scroll above her; a two-faced winged figure of Time with cloven feet holding an hour-glass in its left hand and extending its right hand to a naked female figure in a pool of water, with scrolls bearing mottos: TYM. GARES AL LEIR (Time causes all to learn) above and ZE SEIM. AL MY. PLESVR (You seem all my pleasure) below and the mouth of hell to the right. In the lower section are two further groups: an armed warrior and his fallen foe, who both wear classical armour, the fallen man points to a red shield by his side and a crowned warrior holding a female figure by the hair, his sword drawn as if to slay her. |
The Lennox or Darnley locket is one of the most important early jewels in the Royal Collection. It is said to have been commissioned by Lady Margaret Douglas, Countess of Lennox (1515-78), for her husband Matthew Stewart, Earl of Lennox and Regent of Scotland, who fell in battle in 1571. Theories vary for which occasion the jewel was made. Generally it is believed to have been a memorial piece following the Earl’s death and certainly before Margaret’s own death although the jewel makes no allusion to the Earl’s death. It has also been suggested that it was made to commemorate the return of the exiled Earl to Scotland in 1564 or the restoration of his lands and honours in 1565. The heart-shaped locket, or ‘tablet’ in the language of the sixteenth century, was intended to be worn around the neck or on the breast. The complex iconography of memento mori motifs and symbols of profane and sacred love relate to the Earl and Countess’s life together - the salamander is the crest of the house of Douglas and the heart its device and three fleurs-de-lis on an azure field form the first quarter of the Lennox arms. The jewel also reveals their ambitions for their grandson, the future James VI and I and provides him with the series of admonitions. Although it is not known where the jewel was made, such high-quality workmanship was available in Edinburgh at that time. Three Edinburgh goldsmiths are suggested as possible candidates - George Heriot, Michael Gilbert II and James Gray. The jewel was formerly in the collection of Horace Walpole (1717-97). It was purchased by Queen Victoria at the sale of Strawberry Hill in 1842 and was listed among her private jewellery taken ‘to the Castle’ following her death in 1901.
ORDER OF SAINT PATRICK
Gold, silver, diamonds, rubies, emeralds and enamel7.2 × 6.6cmThe Queen was supplied by Rundell Bridge and Rundell with the star of the Order of the St Patrick presumably at the same time as the Garter and Bath stars which had been supplied in September 1838. However no invoice to confirm exact delivery survives. These stars, all of reduced size to a standard star of the time, formed the pattern for the Queen’s subsequent purchases of insignia including the Star of the Order of the Star of India designed by the Prince Consort.
ORDER OF THE BATH
Gold, silver, diamonds, rubies, emeralds and enamel6.8 × 6.8cmThe Queen’s Bath star was supplied by Rundells in September 1838, along with her Garter star. Both were made with stones from a star of the Guelphic Order, which had been founded during the Regency in the name of George III as King of Hanover. Because Queen Victoria did not inherit the crown of Hanover (Salic Law having prevented a female succession), she had no need for insignia of the Guelphic Order. The Guelphic star provided 373 brilliants, 42 yellow brilliants, 200 roses, 90 emeralds and 30 rubies, of which 252 brilliants were employed for the Garter star and 309 for the Bath star. In addition to the brilliants, 114 rose-cut diamonds, 31 yellow brilliants, 50 emeralds and 9 rubies were used in the Bath star. Ensuite with the Garter and Bath stars, the Queen was supplied with the stars of the Orders of the Thistle and St Patrick, presumably at the same time, but no invoices to confirm exact delivery survive. These stars, all of reduced size to a standard star of the time, formed the pattern for the Queen’s subsequent purchases of insignia including the Star of the Order of the Star of India designed by the Prince Consort.
ORDER OF THE THISTLE
Gold, silver, diamonds, emeralds, rubies and enamel7.2 × 6.8 cm
The Queen was supplied by Rundell Bridge and Rundell with the star of the Order of the Thistle presumably at the same time as the Garter and Bath stars which had been supplied in September 1838. However no invoice to confirm exact delivery survives. These stars, all of reduced size to a standard star of the time, formed the pattern for the Queen’s subsequent purchases of insignia including the Star of the Order of the Star of India designed by the Prince Consort.
|Charlotte of Mecklenburg-Strelitz, Queen Consort of King George III|
|Queen Charlotte’s Finger Ring|
Given to Queen Victoria
Queen Charlotte's Opal Ring
Princess Mary, Duchess of Gloucester, gave these ring to her niece Queen Victoria in 1849. The Duchess had been in constant attendance during Queen Charlotte’s final illness at Kew in 1818 and it was perhaps during this difficult period that she was given the rings. The Duchess wrote that she had ‘witnessed sufferings I can never describe, and I trust, we shall never forget, the Example she gave us of fortitude, & mildness, & every virtue, always trying to keep from us her anguish, & putting on a cheerful face when we came into her room, & receiving any little care & attention with pleasure’. The ring may, alternatively, have passed into the collection of Princess Sophia, and thence to Princess Mary, who had presented certain items from her sister’s estate to Queen Victoria in 1848.Inscribed inside band From Duchess of Gloucester 1849. Belonged to Queen Charlotte.
|Queen Charlotte's Finger Ring of her husband, George III|
This ring formed part of a suite of jewels given to Queen Charlotte by the King on their wedding day, 8 September 1761. Charlotte Papendiek records that this ring is set with the ‘likeness of the King in miniature, done exquisitely beautiful for the coin, by our valued friend Jeremiah Meyer’ and was ‘given also to her Majesty to wear on the little finger of the right hand on this auspicious day’.
On her death the Queen’s vast collection was dispersed; her personal jewels, including the famous diamonds given by the Nabob of Arcot, were left to her four youngest daughters, who sold many pieces. The fate of the ring containing the King’s miniature (set under a large flat-cut diamond) is unclear; it re-entered the collection in 1909. Queen Charlotte’s hereditary jewels, which were bequeathed by her ‘to the House of Hanover, or to be settled upon it, and considered as an Heir Loom, in the direct Line of Succession of that House’, passed to the Prince Regent. Most of these were subsequently lost to the British crown under Queen Victoria when the King of Hanover successfully claimed them as part of his inheritance.
|Queen Charlotte's Diamond Keeper Ring|
This ring was another gift to Queen Charlotte by the King on their wedding day, 8 September 1761
If you look close enough you can see that the ring is engraved with the couples wedding date.
|Queen Elizabeth I|
Gold, Colombian emerald, enamel, diamonds, woven material, possibly hair, behind the emerald9 x 3.7 cmFrederick, Duke of York; by whom apparently given to John Bridge (1755-1834); by descent; sale Knight Frank & Rutley, London, 3 February 1916 (lot 76); purchased by Queen Mary.Large table-cut hexagonal emerald, set and backed in gold; surrounded by a frame with white, black, blue, green and red champlevé; enamel cartouches with rosettes alternating with six table-cut diamonds.
From a large red and blue enamel suspension loop and a small red enamel loop at the bottom is suspended a lozenge-shaped pendant set with four table-cut diamonds. The gold backing of the emerald is inscribed: Elizabeth R.
According to the Catalogue of Additions to the King’s Audience Room, started in 1914, the pendant was ‘formerly the property of Frederick Duke of York; and by him made over to Mr. Bridge (of the Royal goldsmiths, Rundell & Bridge) and purchased from his descendants by Queen Mary in 1916.
The emerald is presumed to have been among Queen Elizabeth’s jewels.’ The entry can only refer to the stone as the mount is later. Although the cut of the emerald is sixteenth century and Queen Mary acquired the pendant on the basis of the stone’s traditional association with Elizabeth I, its early history remains undocumented.
The inscription on the reverse is a facsimile of Elizabeth I’s signature and was probably engraved c.1860-70, at a time when jewels and relics associated with Queen Elizabeth I and Mary, Queen of Scots, were much sought after by antiquarians.
Text adapted from Ancient and Modern Gems and Jewels in the Collection of Her Majesty The Queen, London, 2008
SIR FRANCIS DRAKE JEWEL
The medallion dates from around 1575, but the inset miniature of Queen Elizabeth I was executed by Nicholas Hilliard about a decade later. Family tradition records that Elizabeth I gave this Sir Francis Drake jewel to him sometime between 1540-1595. Although the date on the jewel appears to be 1586, it possibly was given later in commemoration of Drake's role in the defeat of the Spanish Armada in 1588.
The cameo has been skillfully cut to create two heads using contrasting colored layers of stone.
The miniature is watercolor painted on vellum; enameled gold, sardonyx cameo; table-cut diamonds and rubies; pearls.
Miniature painted in London by Nicholas Hilliard (born in Exeter, Devon, possibly 1547 and died in London, 1619); cameo possibly Italian; the jeweled case made in London by unidentified goldsmith.
Drake is shown wearing the jewel in a portrait painted in 1591.
The jewel is showcased in London's Victoria and Albert Museum.
Elizabeth I and Anne Boleyn Ring
This beautiful ring was removed from Elizabeth I’s finger after her death on March 24th 1603.
The Elizabethan ring is mother-of-pearl, the band is set with rubies and the ‘E’ contains six diamonds set over a blue enamel ‘R’. A stunning pearl is also clearly visible. What makes this ring so unique is that its stunning façade hides a secret – the head of the ring is hinged and within it lie two miniature enamel portraits, one of Elizabeth c. 1575 and one of an unnamed woman. The woman wears a French hood and costume of Henry VIII’s reign.
The ring itself is only 175 millimetres across and so the portraits are minute. Even so, the unnamed woman bears a strong resemblance to the sitter in the Hever and National Portrait Gallery paintings of Anne Boleyn.
There is no doubt in my mind, who else would Elizabeth honour in this manner? The portrait is that of her mother Anne Boleyn, who was so callously ripped from her life when she was just two years old.
Although there are no recorded instances of Elizabeth I speaking of Anne publicly, I am sure that she often thought of her privately. I like to think that she drew strength from her mother’s courage and determination and treasured her memory. 408 years after Elizabeth’s death, mother and daughter are still together.
The ring was previously in the possession of the Home family, ‘having been given from the English royal treasures by James I to the then Lord Home’ (Ives, Pg. 42). Today the ring is often referred to as the ‘Chequers ring’ as it belongs to the Trustees of Chequers, the prime minister’s country residence.
In 2008 the ring was displayed publicly as part of a special display at Compton Verney.
Kathleen Soriano, head of exhibitions at Compton Verney, said of the Elizabeth I pearl and ruby locket ring, “It’s a very moving piece because it’s so delicate and small and really evokes the sense of the story. It’s a very powerful object.”
From: On the Tudor Trail
|Mary Stuart, Queen of Scots|
The brooch is part of a parure together with a necklace and pair of earrings. The brooch is of gold and white enamel composed as strapwork and set with four pearls and a central ruby in a box setting.
The setting and ornament dates the brooch as c.1589-90 and is the oldest part of the parure. A 1909 inventory in the Royal Collection, to which the parure has been added at a later date, states that it was given by Mary, Queen of Scots to her attendant Mary Seton.
Mary Seton was a devoted attendant and friend of Mary, Queen of Scots, who shared many years of her exile. She was an excellent hairdresser whose services the Queen greatly admired The jewels passed eventually to Alexander Seton’s descendant, Archibald William, 13th Earl of Eglinton (1812-1861).
This may have been for the celebrated Eglinton Tournament, held by the 13th Earl at Eglinton Castle in 1839 The parure remained in the possession of the Eglinton family until it was sold, together with the Eglinton family jewels, by the three daughters of the 13th Earl, Egidia, Sybil and Hilda, in 1894 at Christie’s on 22 February 1894 (lot 69).
It was acquired by Algernon Borthwick, 1st Baron Glenesk (1830-1908) whose daughter, Lilias Countess Bathurst (d.1965), presented the parure to Queen Mary on the occasion of King George V’s Silver Jubilee in May 1935.
|Queen Mary I|
The original weight of this pear-shaped pearl was 223.8 grains, (55.95 carats, 11.2 g). At the time of its discovery, it was the largest pearl ever found. In 1913 the pearl had to be drilled and cleaned to secure it firmly to its setting. After drilling and cleaning, the pearl's weight decreased to 203.84 grains. La Peregrina remains one of the largest perfectly symmetrical pear-shaped pearls in the world.
La Peregrina is one of the most famous pearls in the world. Its history spans almost 500 years, and it has passed from the African slave who found it at Pearl Islands in the Gulf of Panama, to European kings and queens.
The pearl was found by an African slave on the coast of the isle of Santa Margarita in the Gulf of Panama in the mid-16th century. Some stories claim that the pearl was found in 1513, but at that time there were no African slaves on the islands. The pearl was given to Don Pedro de Temez, the administrator of the Spanish colony in Panama. The slave who found it was rewarded with freedom.
The pearl was carried to Spain and given by Temez to Philip II of Spain. It was in anticipation of his marriage to Queen Mary, that Philip II presented the "La Peregrina" pearl to Queen Mary. Queen Mary wore the pearl as a pendant to a brooch, as seen in the famous portrait of Queen Mary by Hans Eworth, which is exhibited in the National Portrait Gallery in London, as well as other portraits drawn by various artists between 1553 and 1558.
In 1558, after the death of Queen Mary, the pearl was returned to the crown jewels of Spain where it remained for 250 years. It became one of the favorite ornaments of the queen consorts of Spain during that time.
It is not known for sure if Philip II's last two queen consorts wore the pearl, but paintings suggest that they might have. Above is Elisabeth of Valois, Philip's third wife; eldest daughter of Henry II of France and Catherine de Medici.
Philip's fourth and last wife, who was also his niece, Anna of Austria; might be wearing the pearl on her cap and below attached to a brooch.
|After the death of Queen Mary in 1558, the pearl was returned to the Crown of Spain, where it remained as part of the crown jewelry for the next 250 years. It became one of the favorite ornaments for the Spanish queen consorts of that time. |
Margaret of Austria, Queen of Spain, the wife of Philip III of Spain, wore the pearl for the celebration of the peace treaty between Spain and England in 1605.
Portraits made by Diego Velázquez are evidence that the pearl was prized by both wives of Philip IV of Spain.
The equestrian portrait of Elisabeth of France, above, also shows the queen wearing the pearl. Elisabeth was the daughter of Henry IV and Marie de Medici.
Mariana of Austria, the second wife of Philip IV, was painted with the pearl as well. In 1808 the elder brother of Napoleon, Joseph Bonaparte, became the king of Spain. His rule continued for five years, and when he was forced to leave the kingdom, after the defeat of the French forces at the Battle of Vitoria, he took some of the crown jewels with him, including La Peregrina. At that time, the pearl got its name "La Peregrina - the Wanderer."
In his will, Joseph Bonaparte left the pearl to his nephew Charles Louis Bonaparte and later Emperor Napoleon III. During his exile in England, Charles Louis sold it to James Hamilton, Marquess and later Duke of Abercorn. The Marquis bought the pearl for his wife, Louisa Hamilton, Duchess of Abercorn. The pearl was very heavy and it fell out of its necklace's setting on at least two occasions. The first time, the pearl got lost in a sofa in Windsor Castle; the second time, during a ball at Buckingham Palace. On both occasions, the pearl was recovered. The Hamilton family owned the pearl until 1969 when they sold it at auction at Sotheby's in London.
Richard Burton purchased the pearl at the Sotheby's auction for $37,000. He gave it to his wife Elizabeth Taylor as a Valentine's Day gift during their first marriage. Taylor wore the pearl in her cameo in "Anne of a Thousand Days", a movie about Anne Boleyn, which starred her husband, Richard Burton, as King Henry VIII. The wearing of the pearl was very befitting seeing the nature of the film.
On one occasion, the pearl went missing in the Burtons' suite at Caesar's Palace, Las Vegas. In her book Elizabeth Taylor: My Love Affair with Jewelry, Taylor writes:
At one point I reached down to touch La Peregrina and it wasn't there! I glanced over at Richard and thank God he wasn't looking at me, and I went into the bedroom and threw myself on the bed, buried my head into the pillow and screamed. Very slowly and very carefully, I retraced all my steps in the bedroom. I took my slippers off, took my socks off, and got down on my hands and knees, looking everywhere for the pearl. Nothing. I thought, "It's got to be in the living room in front of Richard. What am I going to do. He'll kill me! Because he loved the piece.After few minutes of mental anguish, Taylor looked at their puppies. One of them was apparently chewing on a bone, but nobody gave bones to the puppies. Taylor continues:
I just casually opened the puppy's mouth and inside his mouth was the most perfect pearl in the world. It was—thank God—not scratched.Burton sought a portrait of Queen Mary wearing the pearl. Upon the purchase of such a painting, the Burtons discovered that the British National Portrait Gallery did not have an original painting of Mary, so they donated the painting to the Gallery.
Taylor commissioned Cartier to re-design the necklace, setting La Peregrina with pearls, diamonds, and rubies. In 2005 Taylor lent it to Smithsonian Institution for their "The Allure of Pearls" exhibition.
In December 2011, the pearl sold for a record price of more than $11m (£7.1m). La Peregrina was sold as part of Elizabeth Taylor's collection, which was being auctioned at Christie's in New York.
|Princess' of the United Kingdom|
|Princess of Kent Pearls|
(The Duchess is wearing one of the pearls on her necklace)
These three unusually large natural pearls with diamond-set mounts are presumably from the collection of Grand Duchess Marie of Mecklenburg-Schwerin (1854-1920). She married Grand Duke Vladimir Alexandrovitch Romanoff, the brother of Tsar Alexander III, in 1874 and was known as Grand Duchess Vladimir or Grand Duchess Marie Pavlovna the Elder. She was also a grand-daughter of Paul Frederick, Grand Duke of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, who was himself a grandson of Emperor Paul I of Russia.Her only daughter Helena married Nicholas, Prince of Greece in 1902 who were the parents of Marina the late Duchess of Kent.
She gave the pearls to her second son Prince Michael. The emerald and diamond brooch is in the possession of his wife, Princess Marie-Christine of Kent.
The princess wears these pearls in variety of very attractive ways, such as pendants on brooches.
|Duchess of Gloucester Diamond Brooch|
Above the Wedding presents given to Princess Alice from her husband, the Duke of Gloucester
A diamond brooch in the form of a knot with a large centre brilliant and 3 row collet drops at the ends. Designed as an openwork stylized bow set throughout with cushion-shaped diamonds and a central detachable stone weighing more as 5 carats, supporting tassels collet-set with cushion- and pear-shaped diamonds made around 1860.
Princess Alice Christabel, Duchess of Gloucester
wearing the Diamond Brooch along with the Queen Mary Turquoise Tiara
Princess Michael of Kent nee Baroness Marie.
The brooch attached to the rows of pearls belonged to Tsar Nicholas' mother The Empress Marie, sister to Queen Alexandra of the UK. It was left to Princess Marina by Queen Mary. Princess Marina was the mother of Prince Michael who's wife, Baroness Marie, is wearing the brooch above.
Below, a few pieces from her wedding collection.
Emerald Brooch of Princess Louise
Princess Michael of Kent, above, illustrates her creativity by wearing her emerald and diamond brooch as the centerpiece and pendant of her pearl choker. The emerald and diamond brooch was once the wedding present from Queen Victoria to her daughter Louise, Duchess of Argyll.
It is a very large fine emerald set with brilliants which can be worn in many different settings such as a centre of a bracelet.
Princess Louise apparently bequeathed her jewels to her favourite members of the Royal family, the Kents. Now the brooch is in the possession of Princess Michael of Kent.
The George III Seed Pearl and Diamond Cluster Ring
Thought to have originated in the reign of George III, the ring is oval shaped with 16 old cut diamonds. It was inherited by HRH Princess Margaret.
The 14 seed pearls mounted on the ring are either spherical or oval in shape. The pearls have a white body color and a luster and brilliance, characteristic of saltwater pearls. The ring is over 210 years old, and the pearls still maintain their luster and brilliance. This is not surprising as the pearls are natural and made entirely of nacre. Thus, properties that are dependent on the thickness of nacre, such as color, overtones, luster and brilliance, and orient, are at optimum levels in natural pearls, and can be preserved indefinitely as long as good care is taken of the pearls.
How the ring came into the possession of Princess Margaret is unknown, but one would guess it was passed down from generation to generation.
HRH Princess Margaret's Diamond Rose of York Brooch
Naturalistically modelled, the overlapping cinquefoil petals set with cushion-shaped and rose-cut diamonds, mounted in silver and gold, circa 1860, 3.9 cm. wide
Behind the Brooch: During a dramatic thunderstorm on the night of 21st August 1930 at Glamis Castle, a second daughter was born to T.R.H. The Duke and Duchess of York. This marked the last royal birth in Britain to be witnessed by a Minister for the Crown and placed the child fourth in line to the throne; more significantly, the Princess was sister to the future Queen. After much deliberation, the baby was named Margaret Rose of York, carrying associations with Saint Margaret, the 11th century Scottish Queen and the symbolism of the House of York. Furthermore, the Duchess of York herself had 'Marguerite' as a middle name, while one of Margaret's godparents, her mother's sister, Lady Granville, was called 'Rose'.
The Rose was sold at Christie's, London, 2006.
HRH Princess Margaret's Pearls
A five-row Art Deco pearl and diamond necklace (detail shown) that Princess Margaret wore when photographed by Cecil Beaton for some of her most memorable birthday portraits sold for $509,312.
It was Queen Mary who had the necklace commissioned for herself in 1925. The necklace was a gift from her to her granddaughter Princess Margaret on her 18th birthday. It soon became a classic piece with which the Princess was identified with. Princess Margaret was very found of the piece and wore it on many formal occasions.
The necklace was sold at Christie's Auction house in London, 2006.
THE 'POLTIMORE TIARA' SUITE
Designed as a graduated line of cushion-shaped and old-cut diamond clusters alternating with diamond-set scroll motifs, each surmounted by old-cut diamond terminals, to the collet-set diamond line, mounted in silver and gold, circa 1870, 19.2 cm. maximum diameter, convertible to a necklace and eleven brooches.
Made in 1870 by Garrard for Lady Poltimore, the wife of the second Baron Poltimore and Treasurer to Queen Victoria's household 1872-1874. Sold by public auction on 29th January 1959 for £5,500 as 'a highly important tiara' belonging to the Right Honourable Lord Poltimore, who was the fourth Baron Poltimore (1882-1965)
The tiara was purchased upon the recommendation of Lord Plunket, who was Deputy Master of the Household from 1954 to 1975. It was acquired in 1959 before the official announcement by H.M. Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother on 26th February 1960 of the engagement of H.R.H. The Princess Margaret to Mr Antony Armstrong-Jones. The Princess wore the tiara in its form as a splendid fringe necklace on several occasions before her actual marriage and also as a necklace and brooches on many State and official functions throughout the rest of her life.
Yet it was on her wedding day, arriving at Westminster Abbey by horse-drawn carriage, that H.R.H. The Princess Margaret first wore this impressive piece as the 'Poltimore Tiara'.
This suite was sold at Christie's, London, 2006.
Queen Mary's Diamond Riviere Necklace
Queen Mary was famous for wearing rows and rows of diamond riviere necklaces, just like her predecessor Queen Alexandra.
The necklace was passed to HRH Princess Margaret, Countess of Snowdon (pictured above and below).
Another gift by Queen Mary, an antique diamond rivière diamond necklace dating back to 1900, worn by her at her son King George VI's coronation, consisting of 34 diamonds set in silver and gold; weighing 85 carats.
Sadly this diamond necklace was sold at an auction by her children accompanied by three handwritten notes, naming the necklace as the "Lady Mount Stephen, after its previous owner, with a pre-sale estimate of £200,000 to £300,000 (US $368,000 to $552,000), was sold for £993,600 (US $1,828,224), three-and-half times higher than the upper estimate.
This necklace, sadly, was sold at Christie's in London, 2006.
Each old-cut diamond cluster surmount suspending a foliate diamond link and pear-shaped diamond cluster drop, mounted in silver and gold.
Together with the Poltimore Tiara and H.M. Queen Mary's diamond rivière, these earrings were often worn by H.R.H. The Princess Margaret on her most important official and formal occasions. The Princess wore them in public for the first time on 1st March 1960, when Margaret and fiance Mr. Antony Armstrong-Jones accompanied her mother, the Queen Mum to the Royal Opera House in London.
Sold at Christie's in London, 2006
HRH PRINCESS MARGARET
'AN ART DECO SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND BROOCH'
The openwork geometric plaque set with three rectangular sapphires to the single and old-cut diamond border, millegrain setting, circa 1925, 4.5 cm. wide.
H.R.H. The Princess Margaret was confirmed on 15th April 1946 in the Private Chapel at Windsor Castle by the Archbishop of Canterbury, Geoffrey Fisher, assisted by the Dean of Windsor, Sir Eric Knightley Chetwode Hamilton, and Canon Stafford Crawley of St. George's Chapel Windsor.
It seems highly likely that this confirmation gift from her grandmother was a jewel previously in H.M. Queen Mary's private collection and passed on to her granddaughter on this special occasion.
The pin is accompanied by a note in the hand of H.M. Queen Mary,
'For darling Margaret on her confirmation day from her loving Grannie Mary R God bless you. April 15th 1946.'
The brooch was sold at Christie's Auction house in London, 2006.
The brooch sold for $121,440 USD
A DIAMOND-SET SUITE OF JEWELLERY
Comprising a necklace composed of hexagonal plaques and baton-shaped links, the central section pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, a bangle, ring and pair of earrings en suite, necklace 40.0 cm. long, with two additional links, bangle 5.7 cm. diameter
Sold at Christie's, London, 2006.
|AN ANTIQUE PINK TOPAZ AND DIAMOND PENDENT BROOCH |
The central oval pink topaz within a scroll border of cushion-shaped diamonds suspending a detachable topaz and diamond drop, mounted in silver and gold, circa 1860, 4.5 cm. high.
This brooch was purchased by H.R.H. The Princess of Wales, later H.M. Queen Mary, in 1901.
Sold at Christie's, London, 2006.
|Princess Margaret's Monogram Brooch|
Given to her on her 21st birthday
Designed as H.R.H. The Princess Margaret's 'M' monogram beneath a coronet, set with single and circular-cut diamonds, 2.7 cm. high.
The brooch came in the original fitted blue leather Collingwood (Jewellers) Ltd., 46 Conduit St., case, the lid embossed with the gold 'M' monogram beneath a coronet over the date 21-8-51 (August 21st, 1951)
Sold at Christie's in London, 2006.
|A DIAMOND ROSE BROOCH, BY CARTIER |
Different from the one above, the three dimensional pavé-set rose in full bloom to the openwork leaves and stem set with baguette, single and circular-cut diamonds, 1938, 7.0 cm.
According to Cartier Geneva, this brooch was made by Cartier London in 1938.
H.R.H. The Princess Margaret wore this brooch to the Coronation of her sister Queen Elizabeth II on 2 June 1953 at Westminster Abbey.
Sold at Christie's, London, 2006.
Princess Alexandra of Kent, Lady Ogilvy
daughter of Princess Marina of Greece and Denmark (right)
and Prince George, Duke of Kent
Re-creation of her
Queen Victoria's Jubilee Necklace,
a gift from her husband, The Hon. Angus Ogilvy.
The Princess' Jubilee Necklace with turquoise stones; they necklace can be interchanged with turquoise jewels or pearls.
|Princess of Kent Diamond Girandoles|
Diamond girandoles - jewels given to HRH Princess Marina of Greece & Denmark by her mother, Grand Duchess Elena of Russia, on the occasion of her wedding.
Princess Helena of Greece was a Grand Duchess of Russia and it is said that the girandoles were once owned by her mother Maria Pavlovna, the Grand Duchess Vladimir, but it’s not proven. The pair of diamond ear pendants was often worn by Princess Marina, Duchess of Kent. Each terminating in a detachable pear-shaped diamond pendant within old mine-cut diamond surround with similar articulated pendants on either side to the scrolled diamond surmount and detachable cluster top, mounted in silver and gold ca 1780, 8,8cm long.
After the death of the Duchess, these girandoles along with some other jewellery were sold for tax duties.
The girandoles were auctioned again in November 2000 at Christie’s; the four larger diamonds were replaced with imitation diamonds and they were in a red leather Cartier case (£39,950).
|Pearl and Diamond Tassel|
Princess Mary, Princess Royal is wearing a pearl and diamond tassel pendant. The tassel is composed of fourteen stands of pearls held by the diamond and rose diamond cupola top, which was sold in 1970. It is said that this pearl tassel was a present from her aunt Princess Victoria, the unmarried sister of her father, George V. Princess Victoria is pictured with such a jewel.
The Imperial Sapphire and Diamond Necklace of the Grand Duchess Olga Feodorovna of Russia
Viscount Lascelles presented his royal bride with an Imperial jewel. The sapphire cluster devant de corsage with diamond swags and loops had formerly been the property of Grand Duke Mikhail Mikhailovich, who had inherited it from his mother Grand Duchess Olga Feodorovna , née a Grand Duchess of Baden. The Grand Duke had married morganatically Sophie von Merenberg who was created Countess de Torby by the Grand Duke of Luxembourg. They lived a glamorous life in France and England until the 1917 Russian Revolution curtailed their source of revenue. Like many Russian émigrés, the Grand Duke had to dispose of jewellery on an international market flooded with Russian gems. The jewel was purchased by Viscount Lascelles and graced the Princess on many public occasions, including the coronations of her brother, King George VI and her niece, Queen Elizabeth II.
"This jewel was composed of seven graduated sapphire and diamond clusters of scrolled ribbon design, which could be detached and worn as brooches, each supporting a deep fringe of diamonds with a sapphire centre, and connected by fringed swag motifs." Originally, the necklace probably had an additional inner course of diamonds and/or sapphires. It was sold at auction on 23 November 1960 at Christie's for £28,000 to Levy-Cohen who was acting for Harry Winston of New York City and has not been seen since.
The Princess Royal's Sapphires:
Queen Victoria's Sapphire and Diamond Necklace
King George V gave his daughter a truly magnificent parure of sapphires and diamonds as his wedding gift. It consisted of
|Princess Mary, Viscountess Lascelles wore this parure at her first dinner party and dance where she and her husband entered her parents as the honoured guests at Chesterfield House. King George wrote in his diary "Dear Mary looked charming and wore my sapphires."|
This sapphire and diamond cluster necklace and pendant were also the property of Queen Victoria.
Described in the Christie's auction catalogue:
"An important sapphire and diamond necklace, composed of fourteen graduated sapphire and diamond clusters of quatrefoil design, each held and intersected by a diamond double-leaf motif."
Cushion shaped diamonds and sapphires mounted in silver and gold in a length of 43cm. It was sold at the auction without the pendant for £8000 to Botton.
The pendant was created from a sapphire and diamond brooch which Prince Albert gave to Queen Victoria for her birthday on 24 May 1845.
The Princess Royal, who is pictured in 1922, dressed for Court wearing the
|Bessie 'Wallis', Duchess of Windsor|
The jewels of the Duchess were bought by her husband Edward (the former King Edward VIII) or herself.
The only pieces given to the Duchess by the Royal family were the pearls of Queen Mary as a final gesture towards her son Edward and his wife, as somewhat of an apology.
The only pieces given to the Duchess by the Royal family were the pearls of Queen Mary as a final gesture towards her son Edward and his wife, as somewhat of an apology.
Fancy Yellow Diamond
Earrings and Brooch
'I can't think of anything I would rather have than these two diamonds.' -- the Duchess.
A pair of pear-shaped, fancy yellow diamonds,
weighing 40.81 and 52.13
carats and incorporated into lapel pins
were sold by Harry Winston to the Duke in 1948.
Harry Winston also sold a pair
of brilliant-cut yellow diamonds,
weighing 5.17 and 5.18 carats,
and incorporated into a pair of earrings matching the lapel pins.
'....... I am enclosing several designs for the two canary diamonds which i hope will please you ....` Harry Winston wrote to the Duchess of Windsor on 29th January, 1948. His letter continued, `... The two stones with approximately 92.95 carats and are priceless! Never before have I seen in my experience a pair of canary diamonds Pearshaped so wonderfully fully matched - both because of their exquisite brilliancy and luster and their unusually large size. It is only due to existing conditions in the world today that we were able to puchase diamonds such as these from old estates of royalty. In fact, they are so magnificent, that were not you - I am offering them to - I should keep them here as show pieces with my other jewels ......' source: Sotheby's
The Windsors bought the lapel clips
centre in 1948, one of 40.81 and the
other 52.13 carats. In the picture above, The Duchess wears the diamonds on the front of her dress.
The pear-shaped yellow diamonds top
with circular diamonds, were re-mounted as earclips by Cartier in 1968. They could be attached to each other or worn separately.
The Duchess told her hairdresser
Alexandre that the diamonds had been
given to the Prince of Wales by an Indian Maharajah on his tour in 1921.
Cecil Beaton photographed the Duchess, wearing her yellow diamonds at the Rothschild Ball the clip on her ears and both canary diamonds as a brooch together in claw-set within a border of gold corded wire scroll motifs, set at intervals with brilliant-cut diamonds
Amethyst Lace-Like Necklace
Made with gold and set with diamonds,
amethysts and turquoise,
was designed by Cartier in 1947; commissioned by the Duchess herself. Twisted 18 karat and 20 karat gold, platinum, brilliant and baguette cut diamonds, one heart shaped faceted amethyst, twenty-seven emerald cut amethysts, and one oval faceted amethyst with cobochon turquoises --
294 carats of royal amethysts & diamonds.
The filigree work is made up of step-cut
amethyst and turquoise, and brilliant-cut diamonds.
The necklace has a pair of matching
earrings, a pin, bracelet and a ring.
Cartier Drawing below
The Duchess of Windsor Cross Bracelet
The Cross Bracelet is said to be the most significant of all the jewelry pieces in the collection as it is intimately linked to events in their life, each of the crosses representing a significant event in their life, a stepping stone in their love story, symbols of the depth of love they shared in sickness and health, at happy moments and moments of danger.
The inscription on the plain unadorned platinum cross reads, "WE are too 25-XI-34" meaning Wallis and Edward are two individuals in love with one another.
The inscription on the second blue sapphire cross reads, "Wallis-David 23.6.35" commemorates the 41st birthday of the Duke.
The third yellow sapphire cross with the inscription "'Get Well' Cross Wallis Sept.1944 David" expresses the Duke's wish for his beloved wife's speedy recovery after her Appendectomy surgery.
The 4th Latin Cross set with rubies and with the inscription "Wallis-David St Wolfgang 22.9.35" refers to Wallis and Edward's fall vacation in 1935, which included a stopover in a small town called St. Wolfgang. It is believed that it was during this trip that the then Prince of Wales made the decision to marry Wallis.
The 5th Latin Cross set with baguette-cut diamonds carries the inscription "The Kings Cross God Bless WE 1.3.36" and was said to serve as a reminder that Wallis' then husband, Ernest Simpson, at a meeting held in the first week of March, 1936, agreed to divorce Wallis after the King promised to always take care of her.
The 6th cross encrusted with emeralds and inscribed as "X-ray Cross Wallis-David 10.7.36" refers to the X-ray that revealed an ulcer scar in Wallis' stomach.
The 7th Latin Cross set with caliber-cut amethysts and with the inscription, "Appendectomy Cross Wallis 29.VIII.44 David" refers to Wallis' admission to Roosevelt Hospital in New York, on August 29,1944 for an appendicitis operation.
The 8th Cross set with aquamarine and carrying the inscription "God save the King for Wallis 16.VII.36." refers to an apparent assassination attempt on King Edward, by an Irish Journalist, McMahon, who was carrying a loaded gun.
The 9th cross set with an assortment of colored stones, such as emerald, sapphire, ruby and diamond has the inscription "Our marriage Cross Wallis 3.VI.37 David" marks their wedding day June 3, 1937, at the Chateau de Cande, in France.
The Duchess of Windsor's Diamond and Emerald Engagement Ring - Reset
This ring was made by Cartier in
Paris for the Duchess in 1958, using the stone from her original engagement ring. The emerald is step-cut with cut corners weighing 19.77 carats; set within a stylised leaf border set with brilliant-cut
diamonds inscribed: Monture Cartier; together with the original emerald ring mount by Cartier, London, 1936, inscribed in facsimile in the shank: We are ours now 27 X 36; and signed Cartier, London
Duchess of Windsor's Sapphire Pendant
|The Duchess' Floral Ruby Pin|
The flower brooch made by Cartier with carved emeralds, rubies, diamonds and yellow gold and black enamel is simply gorgeous. The carved emerald resembles a flower with sepals and petals and gold leaves. Small diamonds circle the emerald flower.
Emerald and Diamond Necklace & Bracelet Set
French, circa 1935,
formerly in the Collection of the
Duchess of Windsor.
Designed as three step-cut emeralds with cut-corners; each collet engraved with the weight 6.59, 8.14, 6.29 carats alternating with three step diamonds and connected by sections of five baguette diamonds.
|The Duchess 2|
DIAMOND AND EMERALD NECKLACE
The Duchess 2
It is based on an emerald and diamond necklace by Cartier, Paris, and a matching pendant by Harry Winston, 1960.
They were created for, you guessed it, the Duchess of Windsor.
Panther Clip Brooch
Cartier Paris, 1949
Platinum, white gold; Single-cut diamonds; two pear-shaped yellow diamonds (eyes); one 152.35-carat Kashmir sapphire cabochon Sapphire cabochons (spots).
This panther is the second three-dimensional example that Cartier made for the Duchess of Windsor.
|The 'Feuilles de Houx"|
The “feuilles de houx”, a double feathered brooch, one set with rubies and the other baguette diamonds, are recorded in the archives of Van Cleef & Arpels as one of the first invisibly set ruby jewels created. Purchased by King Edward VIII in 1936 it was gifted to Mrs. Simpson for Christmas.
The Diamond and Ruby Bracelet
(see right, in collection and picture)
The Duchess received this very large ruby and diamond hinged bangle bracelet as her anniversary gift. The bracelet had two rubies that totaled 36.15 carats and 2.62 carats of diamonds. Inscribed “For our first anniversary of June Third” signed & numbered by Cartier.
Diamond and Ruby Set
The heart pendant was a wedding anniversary gift, better view below.
|The Duchess of Windsor's Pearls and Queen Mary|
The priceless central string of 28
graduated natural pearls with oval
diamond clasp was a gift from Queen Mary - a final gesture of reconciliation to her beloved son and his wife she never knew.
The second outside string of 29 cultured pearls came from Van Cleef & Arpels
in Paris in 1964; its attached baroque
pearl pendant was re-set by Cartier in 1950.
|CARTIER SAPPHIRE BEAD EARRINGS|
This pair of earrings was part of the 1987 Sotheby's Geneva Auction "Jewels from the Duchess of Windsor". They were auctioned off again on 17 May 2011. They are quite unusual in design. They were made by Cartier in the 1950's, the diamond set circle holds four hoops made of sapphire beads.
Design of the Ruby necklace; Cartier sketch and order log. Paris, 1939.
Final cost: 157.217
THE DUCHESS OF WINDSOR'S GOLD, RUBY AND SAPPHIRE PENDANT NECKLACE, BY CARTIER
16 square-cut rubies and sapphires.
Suspending a square-cut ruby Latin cross, a polished gold Latin cross and a square-cut sapphire Latin cross, from a gold oval link neckchain, mounted in silver and gold, (ruby pendant inscribed 'David Wallis 23-6-35', gold pendant inscribed 'Wallis 15-11-34', sapphire pendant inscribed '22-9-35 David Wallis St Wolfgang', 25 ins.
Ruby and sapphire pendants signed Cartier Paris.
DIAMOND AND SAPPHIRE "CONTRACT" BRACELET
Designed by Van Cleef and Arpels. This was given on 18th May 1937 when their wedding plans were fixed.
The bracelet has baguettes and diamonds made in the shape of a wrist band and has a bow placed in the centre.
This bow is made up of cushion shaped sapphires and is known as the contract bracelet.
...Jewellery on display...
The Duchess' Diamond, Aquamarine and Emerald Necklace
|BLACK AND WHITE NATURAL PEARLS|
The pair of Black and White Natural Pearl and Diamond Earclips were made by Van Cleef & Arpels, New York, 1957.
Set with a black pearl measuring approximately 18.2 mm. and a white pearl measuring approximately 18.1 mm., within borders of 32 pear-shaped and 64 round diamonds weighing a total of approximately 9.25 carats, mounted in white gold.
These earclips were worn by the Duchess on the most difficult day of her life, the funeral of the Duke, which was attended by Queen Elizabeth II. A picture taken on Saturday, June 3, one week after the death of the Duke shows her at a window of Buckingham Palace wearing all her pearls.
Duchess of Windsor Diamond Flamingo Clip, c. 1940s
Designed as a flamingo in a characteristic pose, the plumage set with calibré-cut emeralds, rubies and sapphires, the beak set with a cabochon citrine and sapphire, the eye set with a similarly cut sapphire, the head, neck, body and hinged legs pavé-set with circular-, brilliant- and single-cut diamonds, measuring approximately 95mm x 65mm x 22mm, signed to the clasp MONTURE Cartier and indistinctly numbered, French assay and maker's marks.
|Emerald, Ruby, and Diamond Brooch|
The pin was made to commemorate the couple's 20th Wedding Anniversary in 1957, designed by Cartier, Paris.
Of heart-shaped design, applied to the centre with a monogram of the initials W and E set with calibré-cut emeralds, above the Roman numeral XX set with calibré-cut rubies, surmounted by a Royal Duke's coronet similarly set, to a background pavé-set with brilliant- and single-cut diamonds, measuring approximately 34mm x 38mm x 10mm, Cartier maker's mark and numbered, French assay marks. Est. 100,000—150,000 GBP. Lot Sold 205,250 GBP
|Diamond and Onyx Panther bracelet|
Jeanne Toussaint, Director of Cartier High Jewelry in 1933, a woman of imagination and exquisite excellence, and nicknamed the "Panther" by Louis Cartier, was involved in the creation of the famous wrap around panther bracelet and also was involved in the creation of the magnificent large multi-jewel Flamingo Clip (left).Underneath the body of the panther is a silver articulated structure crafted to encircle the wrist.
Designed in 1935, by the then-Prince of Wales for his future bride, a plume-shaped diamond brooch was sold to Elizabeth Taylor who was a close friend of the Duchess and Duke of Windsor.
From Harper's Bazaar, 2011: " I have had many. I was especially thrilled to buy the Prince of Wales plume pin at the 1987 auction of the jewelry of the Duchess of Windsor. Richard and I had once admired it, so much so that he asked the duchess if he could copy it for me. She very graciously agreed, but we both felt weird about it, so we didn’t. And then when it finally came up for auction, I really felt I wanted to have it in my collection—because I admired her great style so much, because Richard had wanted me to have the brooch, and, frankly, because the money from the sale went to support AIDS research. I bid from my house in L.A., and when they told me I had won it, I thought, Yes, this was really meant to be in my care, at least for a while."
The Duchess wears the Panther bracelet from above. Known as one of the world’s most elegant women, the Duchess of Windsor made the panther highly fashionable. Cartier to this day still makes this fashionable bracelet as it became so popular after the Duchess bought it. Cartier continues to design jewelry around the panther.
Ruby and Diamond Necklace
White gold, emerald, and ruby bib necklace.
|Other pieces in the Collection of |
The Duchess of Windsor
Sapphire and diamond necklace
Cartier 1940. Two rows of sapphire beads supporting nine articulated flowerhead clusters, graduating in size from the centre, set with cabochon sapphires and circular-cut diamonds, and decorated with dart-shaped drops set with circular-cut diamonds.
|THE GOLD AND DIAMOND NÉCESSAIRE DU SOIR, CARTIER, PARIS, December 1947|
In the form of an egg with twisted ropework borders, the front engraved with the armorial bearings of His Royal Highness The Duke of Windsor, the reverse with a monogram of the initials WW for Wallis Windsor below a Royal Ducal coronet, the thumbpiece collet-set with a rose diamond, suspended from a pendant ring accented with single-cut diamonds, opening to reveal a single lidded compartment with a mirror and feather powder puff, measurements approximately: overall length 125mm, case length 85mm, width 61mm, depth 55mm, signed Cartier Paris, French assay marks and maker’s marks.
Cartier Thistle Brooch
White and pink diamonds set in gold.
1948: An order from the Duke of Windsor for his wife encourages Cartier to develop a three-dimensional panther motif for the very first time: the brooch features a golden cat with black enamel spots crouching on an emerald cabochon.
1949: The Windsors buy a second Panthère brooch in platinum, whose eyes glitter with yellow diamonds as it reclines on a sapphire cabochon weighing 152.35 carats.
(Copy of the original)
The Franklin Mint’s Duchess of Windsor Panther Bracelet, jewelry as dramatic and original as the Duchess herself.
The Duchess of Windsor Panther Bracelet is taken from the molds of the peerless French original guarded by the Duchess in her private collection and bought for the permanent collection of The Franklin Mint at the Sotheby’s Auction on April 2-3, 1987, in Geneva Switzerland.
TRIPLE HOOP GOLD RING
inscribed "Darling Wallis".
One of two triple hoopes which the Duke wore on his pinky finger.
VAN CLEEF and ARPELS
DIAMOND CADENAS WATCH
The watch has never been offered for public sale.
It is an important platinum and diamond “Cadenas” wristwatch by Van Cleef and Arpels dating to 1936.
The design is extremely daring and sets the grounds for the next to come "Retro" style in the 1940's. It has an inscription that says: " For their 3 anniversary, 12.III.36, and Our tub, 17.III.36". According to Sotheby's, this bracelet was part of the inventory of the Duchess of Windsor jewels, so it must have been a gift from the Duke of Windsor, actually at that moment he was in fact King Edward VIII.
The Duchess of Windsor gave this watch/bracelet to Aline Griffith, Condesa Vda. de Romanones, and it is one of the pieces that Sotheby's Geneva will be auctioning on May 17th.
RUBY BANGLE BRACELET
The Duchess wears the bangle on her right wrist.
MONOGRAM PIN OF THE DUCHESS
Made by Kenneth J. Lane just like the The pin represents the monogram of The Duke of Windsor and Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor.
Done in a silvertone with Red and and Green crystals in the W and E entwined together.
|SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND CARNATION|
A sapphire, diamond, and ivory brooch in the form of a carnation was given to the nurse who took care of the Duke until his death. He had the brooch made for her specifically and it was gifted to her by the Duchess following his death.
BOUCHERON DIAMOND CLIP
The Duke bought this delicate diamond pin for his soon to be bride, Wallis.
The pin was made by Boucheron, Paris.
The Duchess' Pearls on display.
|Duchesses and Ladies|
|The Westminster Jewels|
This splendid collection originally belonged to Princess Ekatarina Pavlovna Bagration, née Skavronskaia (1783 - 1857)
The Westminster Necklace
is composed of graduated pendant clusters of oval and pear-shaped spinels within old-cut diamond surrounds.
The earrings each of a facceted pendeloque spinels suspended within old-cut diamond detachable surrounds.
The Duchess of Westminster has imperial Russian connections through her descent from Grand Duke Mikhail Mikhailovich and his wife Sophie von Merenberg, Countess Torby.
|The Londonderry Russian Pink Topaz Pendant|
Around 1900, pink topaz made a comeback as Edwardian socialites vied to display the finest, most expensive and most unusual jewels. A few superb examples, such as the pink topaz pendant illustrated here, once owned by the Marchioness of Londonderry, demonstrate how lovely this gem can be. The revival was short-lived, and pink topaz never rose to the level of demand it had in the 1830s.
This Russian Pink Topaz was given by Tsar Alexander I to Frances Anne, Marchioness of Londonderry in 1821. The stone formed part of a
set of graduated pink topazes worn by Lady Londonderry on the front of her robes at the Coronation of William IV
It was later remounted with diamonds as a pendant by the Crown jewellers Garrard, possibly to mark the accession
of the seventh Marquess of Londonderry on 8th February 1915.
|Mountbatten Art-Deco Diamond Platinum Chain|
This Art Deco style diamond necklace was set in platinum. It was possible to dissemble the necklace into a short necklace and several bracelets. The future Countess wore it both ways, as short necklace or as bracelets.
It was owned by
Edwina Lady Mountbatten nee Ashley
Her daughter Lady Pamela Hicks inherited the necklace which was sadly sold for US $71,000 in 1978.
|The Londonderry Amethysts|
These Siberian amethysts were part of a present to Frances Anne, wife of the 3rd Marquess of Londonderry, in Vienna 1821 from Tsar Alexander I of Russia. He wanted to turn her head and gave her 14 of these highly rare and perfect Tsar-Amethysts. The best Russian amethysts come from Siberian mines, which were then owned by the Tsar. They are said to be the finest in the world because of the red and blue higlhights seen in the deep purple body colour of the stones.
Lady Londonderry was charmed by the amorous attentions of the Tsar and by the precious stones he heaped upon her but she manged to end the love affair innocent of guilt.... Frances Anne had the amethysts mounted as sleeve clasps and then as a chain which she sometimes wore as a tiara, but more usually across her dress, like the ribbon of an order.
The necklace of 6 clusters centered with amethysts, pictured above, was made from the tiara in 1916 and designed by E. Wolff & Co. The wife of the 7th Marquess, Edith, above, wore them as a vertical chain reaching from her neckline to her waist. Daisy, Princess of Pless, wrote of her as one of the “universally acknowledged beauties” and always remembered Lady Londonderry’s advice at the beginning of her marriage: “My Dear, always enter a room, as if the whole place belongs to you”! The British novelist E.F. Benson also recalled the strong-minded Marchioness Edith, with something akin to admiration: “She went for life hammer and tongs…. Like a highwayman in a tiara, trampling on her enemies as if they had been a bed of nettles.” When she died, the British military journalist, Charles Repington, wrote: “She was one of the most striking and dominating feminine personalities of our time, terrifying to some, but endeared to many friends by her notable and excellent qualities”.
Now on display at the
Victoria and Albert Museum
in London, England in the Jewelry Exhibit.
|The Londonderry Diamond and Pearl Tiara/Necklace|
Commissioned c. 1821 by Frances Anne, wife of 3rd Marquess of Londonderry.
The suite consisted of a diamond and pearl necklace, earrings and several brooches.
The Marchioness of Londonderry came to the Devonshire House Ball dressed as Empress Maria Theresa of Austria, a strong reference to her own powerful position in the political life of the country. The bodice was further adorned with a magnificent diamond stomacher and ropes of pearls festooned on each side. She wore a necklace of pear-shaped pearls, with another diamond rivière above and as a crown the famous Londonderry tiara which had been adapted by the addition of a cross of brilliants. The newspapers were unanimous that Lady Londonderry “looked the part to perfection” and she was listed among “the beauties of the night.”
The picture above it is the tiara upside-down to demonstrate its transition into a necklace
(as seen above)
Lady Theresa, Marchioness of Londonderry, wife of the 6th Marquess wearing the necklace as a tiara.
|The Londonderry Diamond Stomacher|
The ornament can be divided into three brooches. Garrards made it in 1853 for Frances Anne, widow of the 3rd Marquess of Londonderry The estimate for
manufacture was £175.
The stomacher is now on display at the
Victoria and Albert Museum
in London, England in the Jewelry Exhibit along with the tiara and Amethysts. It is a MARVELOUS piece of jewelry, a MUST SEE!
Lady Theresa, Marchioness of Londonderry, wife of the 6th Marquess.
The diamond stomacher consisted of 230 carats of diamonds in total; the largest diamond was 15 carats and mounted in silver and gold. The diamonds were taken from a Garter insignia and sword of the Viscount Castlereagh which he had worn at the coronation of George IV in 1821.
Duchess of Roxburghe Jewels
This ruby and diamond jewelry belonged to Mary, Duchess of Roxburghe, and was probably purchased from Garrards (a British jewelry since 1735) by the 5th Earl of Roseberry. The jewelry rests on its original turquoise velvet case, embellished with an R monogram that sits under a coronet (R&S Garrard & Co, Goldsmith and Jewellers to The Crown).
The necklace could be compared to the one Catherine Parr wears in Episode 8.
Some jewels already have the source in the box, for others:
Alexander Palace Time Machine Forums
Christie's of London ONLINE
Cartier by Hans Nadelhoffer
Internet Stones website
Mandy's British Royalty Blog: British Jewels
The Official Royal Collection website
"The Royal Jewels" -REVISED- by Suzy Menkes
"The Queen's Jewels" by Leslie Field
The Royal Magazine website
The Royal Forums
Victoria & Albert: Art & Love, London, 2010
Some jewels already have the source in the box, for others:
Alexander Palace Time Machine Forums
Christie's of London ONLINE
Cartier by Hans Nadelhoffer
Internet Stones website
Mandy's British Royalty Blog: British Jewels
The Official Royal Collection website
"The Royal Jewels" -REVISED- by Suzy Menkes
"The Queen's Jewels" by Leslie Field
The Royal Magazine website
The Royal Forums
Victoria & Albert: Art & Love, London, 2010
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